The Verges Passion Play: A Theatre Guide

Every Maundy Thursday, promptly at 10:00 PM, the Verges Passion Play brings the town square to life. This grand performance, a highlight of Holy Week in Empordà, transforms the town center of Verges into a stunning open-air theatre against the backdrop of the medieval walls.

This performance in the Square is more than a simple play; it is the central act that gives meaning to and kicks off the historic Procession. It combines traditional 18th-century texts with a contemporary staging that will give you goosebumps.

The Verges Passion Play: A Unique Staging

What makes the performance in the Square so special is its atmosphere. In 2009, the artistic direction took a significant leap forward under the guidance of Lluís Llach, who adapted and modernised the show while respecting its traditional essence.

Lighting: Light plays a key narrative role. You will journey from the festive, colourful brightness of the entry into Jerusalem to the dramatic gloom of the final judgement, passing through the fire of the Roman torches.
The Soundtrack: In the Square, music underscores the drama. Highlights include sacred pieces like the Agnus Dei and symphonic fragments by Shostakovich, which add an almost cinematic tension during the Sanhedrin’s plot or Pilate’s trial.
The Acoustics: The dialogues, written in rhyming and understandable verse thanks to the adaptation by siblings Carles and Maria Perpinyà, resonate against the old stone of the wall, creating a unique atmosphere that envelops the audience.

The Scenes: What You’ll See in the Verges Square Performance

The performance lasts about two hours and narrates the events chronologically. These are the main scenes you will experience from your seat:

Icon of laurel branches on a maroon background, symbolizing Jesus's entry into Jerusalem (Palm Sunday) in Verges. — The Palm Sunday Scene: The joy of the children and the triumphal entry into Jerusalem.

1. Palm Sunday (Triumphal Entry into Jerusalem)

It’s the beginning, full of light and colour. Jesus enters riding a donkey, acclaimed by the entire town and especially by the children of Verges, who wave olive and laurel branches while singing ‘Hosanna’. It’s the only moment of collective joy before the tragedy.

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Icon of a water pitcher and an ancient well on a maroon background, representing the scene of the Samaritan Woman. — The conversation between Jesus and the Samaritan Woman at Jacob’s well.

2. The Samaritan Woman

The action becomes more intimate. Jesus meets the Samaritan woman at Jacob’s well. It is a scene of intense dialogue about conversion and living water, breaking the cultural barriers of the time.

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Icon of a chalice and broken bread on a maroon background, symbolizing the Eucharist at the Last Supper in Verges. — The Last Supper: The institution of the Eucharist in the Square.

3. The Last Supper

On stage, Jesus and the twelve apostles celebrate the last supper. Here, the Eucharist is instituted, and in a dramatic turn, the imminent betrayal by Judas is announced, all under warm, intimate lighting.

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Icon of an open money bag on a maroon background, representing Judas's betrayal to the Sanhedrin. — The Sanhedrin and the payment of the 30 pieces of silver to Judas.

4. The Sanhedrin

Politics comes into play. The high priests, led by Caiaphas, conspire in the darkness to arrest Jesus. It is here that the deal with Judas for the 30 pieces of silver is sealed, marked by solemn and menacing music.

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Icon of a skeleton with a scythe on a maroon background, representing the Dance of Death of Verges. — The appearance of the Dance of Death on the stage in the Square.

5. Appearance of the Dance of Death

Just after the conspiracy, and as a premonition of what is to come, the five skeletons of the Dance of Death make a brief but impactful appearance in the square, crossing the stage to the rhythmic sound of the drum.

Icon of praying hands under an olive branch on a maroon background, for the Garden of Gethsemane scene. — The prayer in the Garden and the moment of the arrest.

6. The Garden of Gethsemane

The darkest and most tense scene. It combines the agony of Jesus praying in solitude with the violent arrival of the Roman soldiers (Manages), guided by torches, and Judas’s kiss. The arrest marks the point of no return.

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Icon of hands being washed with water on a maroon background, symbolizing Pontius Pilate in The Sentence. — The Sentence: Pilate washes his hands and condemns Jesus.

7. Pilate’s Sentence

The final climax. The square is transformed into a Roman palace. Pontius Pilate, pressured by the people and the priests, washes his hands and condemns Jesus to the cross. With this powerful speech, the play ends, and the Procession through the streets officially begins.

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Tips for Attending the Performance in the Square

Attending the performance in the Square is an experience that requires some planning:

Tickets: They are limited and highly sought after. They go on sale online weeks in advance and usually sell out quickly. It is essential to buy them in advance through the official channels.
The Weather: This is an open-air event in the Empordà region. Even in spring, nights can be cold, especially if the tramuntana wind is blowing. Bringing warm clothing is more than recommended; it’s essential to enjoy the play without shivering.
Access: You should arrive with enough time to find parking and enter the square before the show starts at 10:00 PM.